I haven’t done many border crossings by land in my travels, but Panama’s wasn’t my favorite.   I crossed from Sixaola, Costa Rica to Guabito, Panama. I anticipated some potential issues, and I thought I had prepared appropriately.  But, I had a few over sights.  So to anybody who may be traveling to Panama, you may want to learn from a few of my mistakes.  

Puerto Viejo

My morning started off great.  I had breakfast in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica at Bread & Chocolate.  Their food is homemade heaven, and I couldn’t help but eat there every day.  After eating, I grabbed my backpack and headed to the bus stop.  I bought my ticket and got on the bus to Sixaola.

Sixaola

I love Costa Rica, and I had a great time in Puerto Viejo.  But I was stoked to leave behind US$4 beers.  I grabbed my backpack from under the bus and instantly the cab drivers are trying to get you in their taxi to drive you to la frontera.  You can’t see the border from the bus station, but it’s literally RIGHT THERE.  Unless you have five bags weighing 90 lbs each, just walk.  After they realize you won’t get in their cab, they’ll point you in the direction of the border..

As you approach the border, there is a ramp and a set of stairs to walk up to get your exit stamp for Costa Rica.  Don’t bother going up yet.  You need to pay your exit fee for Costa Rica, and per usual, the official government payment machines don’t work.  Instead, you’ll find a tiny window attached to a restaurant and minimart.  For a second I thought I was more likely to order a to-go coffee than pay my exit fee, but there is a sign above it saying to pay your exit tax there.  They charge a $1 fee but since the payment machine doesn’t work, there’s no alternative.

Now you can head up the stairs or ramp, and head into the government office.  Somebody will probably hand you the exit paperwork, and go ahead and take it.  I didn’t see anybody trying to get payment for the free paper work.  As always, try to have a pen on you so you can fill out the paperwork quickly.  I didn’t experience a wait here.  After I had my receipt for the exit tax and my exit paperwork filled out, I walked into the office, quickly got my passport stamped, and headed to the land of $1.50 beers.

The Bridge (or bridges)

I had previously seen pictures of people crossing the bridge to get to Panama.  It’s a really beautiful, old bridge made of wooden planks and metal. I approached it and of course had my tourist photo taken.  I barely got a photo or two taken by the time people started yelling at me to get off it.  Apparently, it’s old and could collapse at any point. There was no warning sign or caution tape.  (I probably would have gone anyway for a quick pic.)  I didn’t think the bridge looked that bad, but I re-routed and went over the plain, boring, new bridge to the left of it.

The Bologna Tax

Well, I did a little homework before this border crossing by reading along dusty road’s account of this border crossing.  They said that there is a little window of people charging an entry tax.  They said they were pretty sure it is not a real government fee. My assessment is the same.  I saw some military police, and I asked them where to go first.  They directed me to the “entry tax” window.

I paid my tax without arguing.  It’s just $3, after all. I got a teensy piece of paper with blurry ink on it.  It looks like it says municipality on it with an emblem.  Below this, “entrada” is handwritten.  Mmhmm. Convincing.

Panama Immigration Office

To enter Panama, you need to have a ticket proving that you are leaving their country.  This may not be inconvenient for all travelers, but seeing as I’m traveling without an itinerary, I’m not buying a ticket just to make some immigration officer happy.  So I may or may not have… just created one.

I took a few screenshots of my bank statements too.  Apparently, the immigration  officers can ask for proof that you have at least $500.  I was feeling quite pleased with myself.  I was ready to be done with this paperwork and go relax.

I approached the immigration window to find no line.  I felt like I was winning the lottery.  I handed the immigration officer my receipt for the “entry tax”, and he shook it off saying that he doesn’t want that.  Thought so!  I handed him my passport, and he immediately asks for my ticket saying that I’m leaving the country.  I handed him my phone with a screenshot of my ticket.  Moment of truth.  Will this work? Will he know it’s a fake? What exactly is the punishment for fraud in Panama?

He hands me my phone back.  “Your name’s not on it.”   ROOKIE.  How could I have missed THAT?!  I try to talk my way out of it but he isn’t having it.  I ask if there is any place to get wifi.  He points at the restaurant next door.  I’m guessing that you need to pay or order something to use their wifi.  I wouldn’t know because I just sat out of sitght of the immigration office and opened up a photo editing app.  Five or so minutes later, I’ve got this embarrassing bit of Photoshopping to show.  I think it’s probably a good idea to go to a different immigration officer this time.  But the exit line is 50 people deep now, and the only person processing entry is the same guy.  Hmm.  Well, here goes nothing.  I hand him my passport and cellphone with my “ticket”.  He takes my photo, stamps my passport, and hands my belongings back to me.  Yeeeeeeaaaah baby! I’m in!

Heading for the Bus

I’m feeling pretty damn smug.  I beat the system. And I liked it.

I started walking towards the public bus (which is about 75 meters away- just go under a small bridge).   Then the harassment starts.  A group of men were initially trying to sell me the shuttle directly to Bocas del Toro.  Honestly, they offered me a pretty good deal. Five bucks in an air conditioned van directly to the ferry for Bocas.  But I wanted to save the $1 and take the public bus.  I  get aggravated by all the men trying to push me into buying their fare, and sometimes I’d rather go through a little inconvenience so they don’t make a profit off of me.

I shake those men off and here comes the “Bologna entry tax” enforcer.  He’s got his hair all nice and gelled. His aviator sunglasses on. Tight polo shirt and designer jeans.  I’ll admit: he’s a tall, dark, and handsome guy.  But he’s a jerk. He shows me the small faded “ID badge” he has around his neck.  He starts yelling at me pretty aggressively to prove that I paid the entry tax.  Well, excuuuuse me but after immigration told me that they didn’t need it, I just tossed the itty bitty paper into my backpack.  I opened my backpack up and started looking for it.  He was about 6 inches from me and he just keeps yelling and yelling at me.  It only took me a few minutes to find the receipt, but by the end off it, I was screaming back at the guy.  My Spanish still sucks, but I know how to yell “Yo entiendo” and “Espera”.  I showed him the paper and stormed  off through the the crowd of local men watching this as their form of entertainment.

Getting to Bocas del Toro

The group of people I had met while traveling found me seething at the bus stop.   But…they convinced me that the shuttle bus really was the better deal.  I begrudgingly paid the $5, and 1.5 hours later I was boarding the ferry to Bocas del Toro.  I bought my ferry ticket for $6…. Later I see that it says $4 on the ticket.  The woman at the counter said “Oh, that’s the price for the return ticket.”  Riiiight.

This story has a happy ending though.  I had a beautiful 45 minute boat ride to the islands.  I walked off the boat, and into the bar next door.  I sat down at the waterfront and promptly ordered myself a Panama beer for $1.50.   This view was worth a little bit of paperwork and several gringo taxes. I’d do it again gladly.